Arwen enjoying the Quiraing
There's something rather magical about the Isle of Skye.
To be honest, I'm happy just about anywhere in the Scottish Highlands. But Skye holds a particularly special place in my heart.
There's a peaceful, serene energy about the island that I don't experience in many other places. Perhaps it's the dramatic landscapes, the vast open spaces, the rugged coastline or the feeling of being somewhere a little removed from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Whatever it is, Skye has a way of making you slow down, breathe deeply and simply appreciate being there.
And the scenery? Absolutely breathtaking.
From the otherworldly landscapes of the Quiraing and the iconic Old Man of Storr to the magnificent Cuillin mountains, Skye is a paradise for nature lovers. There are beautiful beaches too, from white sands and crystal-clear waters to pebbly shores and dramatic stretches of dark volcanic sand. And the sunsets can be truly spectacular.
It's a wonderful destination for walkers, couples, nature lovers and anyone travelling with a four-legged companion.
We first visited Skye back in 2013 and fell completely in love with it, so a return visit was long overdue. This October, we finally made it back and took Arwen, our Golden Retriever, along for the adventure.
Here's what we got up to during our week on this beautiful islandβ¦
The Fairy Glen
If anywhere on Skye feels as though it might genuinely be home to fairies, it's the Fairy Glen!
This enchanting landscape near Uig is made up of small, grassy hills, unusual rock formations and winding paths, all surrounded by beautiful countryside. It's a lovely place to wander, climbing the little peaks, admiring the views and exploring the curious formations, including the famous stone circles often referred to as fairy rings.
There's something wonderfully whimsical about the whole place, and it's easy to understand how Skye became so closely associated with folklore and fairy tales. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring.
The Quiraing
The Quiraing
Oh, the Quiraing. My absolute favourite place on Skye.
There really aren't words to describe how spectacular this landscape is, and even photographs struggle to capture its extraordinary scale and beauty.
The Quiraing is part of an ancient landslip on the Trotternish Peninsula, creating a vast, sweeping landscape of dramatic cliffs, towering rock formations, rolling hills and valleys that seem to stretch forever.
It's genuinely breathtaking.
We didn't venture too too far along the walking routes, but you really don't need to walk for miles to appreciate the extraordinary views. Even a relatively short wander rewards you with some spectacular scenery.
For enthusiastic walkers, there are longer routes to explore.
And even if you don't fancy walking at all, the drive through this landscape is an experience in itself.
For me, the Quiraing is an absolute must-see on Skye. It's one of those rare places that makes you feel very small, in the most wonderful way.
The Old Man of Storr
The Old Man of Storr
Another of Skye's most famous landmarks, and for good reason.
The Old Man of Storr is an enormous, distinctive rock pinnacle rising from the dramatic hillside above the Sound of Raasay.
There's a popular walking route up towards the rock formations, although it's a fairly steep climb.
You can however still appreciate the extraordinary scenery without heading all the way to the top.
We did get up close but I also rather enjoyed this view which is a little further up the roadβ¦
View of the Cuillins from Elgol
The Cuillin Mountains and Elgol
The Cuillin mountains are another magnificent feature of Skye's landscape, with their jagged peaks creating a dramatic backdrop across the southern part of the island.
We took a beautiful drive towards the little coastal village of Elgol, travelling through some truly stunning scenery along the way.
It's one of those drives where the journey is every bit as enjoyable as the destination.
The mountains, lochs, open countryside and ever-changing skies make it almost impossible not to keep stopping for photographs.
If you enjoy scenic drives, this is definitely one to add to your itinerary.
Take snacks.
An Corran Beach, Staffin
Skye has some beautiful beaches, and An Corran, near Staffin, is particularly special.
With its dark sand, beautiful coastal views and dramatic surroundings, it's a wonderful place for a peaceful stroll or a paddle along the shoreline.
It's also famous for something rather extraordinary: dinosaur footprints!
An Corran Beach
Fossilised footprints can sometimes be spotted in the rocks at low tide, a fascinating reminder of the prehistoric creatures that once roamed this part of Scotland. Even without the dinosaurs, it's a gorgeous beach and somewhere we could happily have spent hours.
On a warmer day, it would be the perfect place to bring a picnic and simply enjoy the surroundings.
Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls
A waterfall cascading over dramatic cliffs and straight towards the sea. What's not to love?
Kilt Rock is named after the distinctive appearance of its cliffs, whose vertical rock formations resemble the pleats of a Scottish kilt.
Alongside it, Mealt Falls plunges dramatically from the clifftop towards the sea below.
It's an impressive sight and well worth a stop while exploring the Trotternish Peninsula.
Dunvegan Castle and Gardens
Dunvegan Castle is the ancestral home of Clan MacLeod and has been associated with the clan for around 800 years, making it one of Scotland's most historic castles.
We didn't venture inside the castle itself as we had Arwen with us, but the grounds and gardens were well worth visiting in their own right.
With autumn in full swing, the trees were displaying beautiful seasonal colours, and the gardens provided a lovely contrast to Skye's wilder landscapes.
It's a beautiful setting, and even without exploring the castle interiors, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
Talisker Bay β A Sunset to Remember
If I had to recommend one place to watch the sunset on Skye, Talisker Bay would be very high on my list.
Getting there requires a little effort. We parked up in a lay-by and followed the path towards the beach, walking for around 20 minutes and occasionally wondering whether it was going to be worth it.
Spoiler alert: it absolutely was!
We arrived to find a magnificent beach, dramatic cliffs, a waterfall tumbling down towards the shore and, best of all, not another soul in sight.
We had the entire beach to ourselves.
It was peaceful, beautiful and utterly blissful.
One practical tip: if you're visiting for sunset, take a torch! It obviously starts to get dark afterwards, and the walk back along the path is much easier when you can actually see where you're going!
Skye Candle Company
Of course, a trip to Skye wouldn't be complete without a little shopping!
We visited the lovely Skye Candle Company, which has a beautiful selection of candles, home fragrances and gifts.
There's also a lovely dog-friendly restaurant next door, making it a great place to stop for a bite to eat.
It's an especially good option for one of those rainy Scottish days when a long walk might not seem quite so appealing.
And really, who can resist a gorgeous candle? Not me.
Exploring the Coastline
One of the things I love most about Skye is that you don't always need a particular destination in mind.
Sometimes the best thing to do is simply get in the car and explore.
Head along the coast, discover little beaches, stop at viewpoints and enjoy the constantly changing scenery.
The western coastline is particularly beautiful as the sun begins to set, and there are countless places where you can pull over and simply admire the view or stroll along a beach.
We found that some of our favourite moments came from doing exactly that - no particular plans, no rushing, just enjoying wherever the road took us.
A Few Practical Tips for Visiting Skye
Groceries and Supplies
Although Skye feels wonderfully remote in places, there are shops dotted around the island where you can pick up essentials.
We found Rankins Supermarket in Uig particularly handy, and there are several Co-op stores across the island too.
One especially useful discovery was that Tesco offered a Click+Collect service on Skye, despite not having a supermarket on the island itself. It wasn't quite your usual supermarket collection - we placed a large grocery order online and collected it from a designated car park, with collection available between 5pm and 7pm. It might sound a little unconventional, but it worked brilliantly.
Having a big shop sorted at the beginning of our stay made self-catering much easier, particularly as we were staying in a fairly rural location. It also meant we could spend less time hunting for groceries and more time enjoying the island.
What about the weather?
We visited in mid-October, so we certainly weren't expecting wall-to-wall sunshine! And Mother Nature didn't disappoint in that respect. We had a couple of very wet days with some seriously strong winds.
But do you know what? We didn't mind at all.
We took Arwen out for a short walk on those days, then retreated to our lovely warm cottage, where we had books, arts and crafts and even some Lego to keep us entertained.
There was something wonderfully comforting about being tucked away indoors, listening to the wind and rain outside, with absolutely nowhere we needed to be. Sometimes a holiday isn't about filling every hour with activities. Sometimes it's about slowing down, switching off and enjoying the simple pleasure of doing very little. And Skye is a wonderful place to do exactly that.
Where we stayed
For our week on Skye, we stayed at Taigh Iasg, a beautiful dog-friendly cottage with incredible 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside.
It was spacious, comfortable, peaceful and wonderfully cosy, particularly on those wet and windy October days.
With a fully enclosed garden for Arwen, thoughtful dog-friendly touches and a fantastic location for exploring the island, it was easily one of the best holiday cottages we've stayed in.
I've written a separate review of Taigh Iasg, which you can read here >
Until next time, Skyeβ¦
Gorgeous views near Neist Point.
Our return to Skye reminded me exactly why we fell in love with the island all those years ago.
There's a wild, untamed beauty here that feels quite unlike anywhere else. The dramatic mountains, beautiful beaches, extraordinary landscapes and endless open skies are spectacular, of course.
But for me, there's something more.
It's the stillness. The peace. The sense of space. The feeling that, just for a little while, the rest of the world can wait.
Whether we were exploring breathtaking scenery, watching a glorious sunset or simply curled up in our cottage listening to the rain, I felt completely content. And I think that's what makes Skye so special.
We certainly won't be leaving it another 13 years before we return!